How To Fix A Rowing Machine

If your rowing machine is making a strange noise or just isn’t working smoothly, knowing how to fix a rowing machine can save you a costly repair bill. Many common issues are surprisingly easy to resolve yourself with a few basic tools and some patience.

This guide walks you through the most frequent problems, from a slipping seat to a broken monitor, and provides clear steps to get you back on the water.

How to Fix a Rowing Machine

Before you start any repair, safety is the most important thing. Always unplug the machine if it’s electric, and refer to your owner’s manual for specific disassembly instructions. Having a set of basic tools like hex keys, screwdrivers, and lubricant will make the process much smoother.

Common Rowing Machine Problems and Solutions

Most issues fall into a few key categories. Identifying the symptom is the first step to finding the right fix.

The Seat is Sticking or Slipping

A seat that doesn’t roll smoothly or that slips during your stroke ruins your workout. Here’s what to check:

* Clean the Rail: Dirt, dust, and old lubricant buildup are the most common culprits. Wipe the seat rail thoroughly with a dry cloth, then use a mild cleaner if needed. Ensure it’s completely dry before proceeding.
* Inspect the Wheels: Look at the wheels on the seat carriage. Are they cracked? Do they spin freely? Gunk can get stuck in the wheel bearings.
Lubricate the Rail: Apply a silicone-based lubricant (not an oil or WD-40) to the rail. Spray or wipe a thin coat along the entire length, then run the seat back and forth to distribute it.
* Tighten the Seat: The seat itself might be loose on the carriage. Check the connection and tighten any bolts you can find.

The Chain or Strap is Loose, Noisy, or Stuck

This affects the resistance feel. The fix depends on your machine type.

For Chain-Driven Machines:
1. Locate the chain tension adjustment. This is often a bolt or knob near the flywheel.
2. A slight amount of slack is normal. If there’s excessive slack or it’s skipping, adjust the tension according to your manual.
3. Lubricate the chain with a light machine oil. Apply sparingly and wipe off excess to prevent drips.

For Strap-Driven Machines:
1. Check the strap for fraying, twists, or obvious wear. A badly damaged strap needs replacement.
2. Ensure the strap is correctly threaded through the pulley system. Refer to a diagram in your manual.
3. The strap might just need retensioning. There’s usually a spring-loaded mechanism or a buckle to adjust its length.

The Monitor is Not Working

If the screen is blank or readings are wrong, don’t assume it’s broken.

* Check the Batteries: This solves the problem 90% of the time. Replace them with fresh ones.
* Check the Sensor: Most monitors use a magnetic sensor and a magnet on the flywheel. Ensure they are aligned and close enough (about 1/4 inch apart). Clean any dust off both parts.
* Reset the Monitor: Look for a small reset button or try removing the batteries for a full minute to reset the computer.

The Resistance Feels Wrong (Too Hard or Too Easy)

Resistance issues vary by machine technology.

Magnetic Rowers:
* The calibration might be off. Consult your manual for the reset procedure.
* The magnet rail could be obstructed. Make sure it moves freely.

Air Rowers:
* Clean the flywheel vents. Clogged vents reduce air flow and lower resistance. Use a vacuum or damp cloth.
* Check the damper setting. A lower number (like 1-3) feels like a sleek boat on water, a higher number (like 8-10) feels like a heavier boat. It’s not a difficulty level, but a drag factor.

Water Rowers:
* Check the water level. If it’s low, top it up with distilled water to the indicated line.
* Look for leaks or algae growth. A leak requires sealing the tank; algae needs a special cleaning kit.

Step-by-Step: Fixing a Squeaky Noise

Squeaks and creaks are annoying but usually simple. Follow these steps to find the source:

1. Isolate the Area: Row slowly and listen. Does the noise come from the seat, the footplates, or the main frame?
2. Tighten Everything: Using the appropriate tools, check and tighten all bolts, especially where moving parts connect. This includes foot straps, rail bolts, and the main frame joints.
3. Lubricate Moving Parts: Apply silicone lubricant to the seat rail, chain/strap, and any pivot points you can identify. Avoid over-lubricating.
4. Inspect the Foot Straps: Sometimes the plastic buckles or the straps themselves can creak against the footplate. Adjusting or tightening them can help.

Step-by-Step: Replacing a Worn Out Bungee Cord

Many rowers use a bungee cord to retract the handle. When it loses it’s spring, here’s how to change it.

1. Order the Correct Part: Get the official replacement cord from the manufacturer or a verified third-party seller.
2. Remove the Old Cord: You’ll typically need to remove the end cap on the flywheel housing. Carefully note how the old cord is routed and attached.
3. Install the New Cord: Route the new cord exactly like the old one. This often involves hooking one end inside the flywheel and the other to the handle clip.
4. Test the Tension: The handle should retract smoothly without jerking. You may need to adjust the knot or hook position to get the tension just right.

When to Call a Professional

Some problems are best left to experts. Contact the manufacturer or a repair service if:

* The main frame is cracked or bent.
* There’s a major issue with the internal flywheel mechanism.
* You have electrical problems beyond simple battery replacement.
* The repair requires specialized tools or knowledge you don’t have.

Regular Maintenance Prevents Most Problems

A little care goes a long way. Make these habits:

* Wipe Down After Use: Remove sweat and dust from the rail, seat, and handle.
* Check for Loose Parts: Monthly, give bolts and fittings a quick check.
* Lubricate Periodically: Apply silicone lubricant to the rail every few months, or as recommended.
* Keep it Clean: Vacuum around the machine regulary to prevent dust from getting into the mechanism.

Following these tips will keep your rowing machine in great shape for years, ensuring every workout is effective and enjoyable.

FAQ: Fixing Your Rower

Q: How do I fix a rowing machine that has no resistance?
A: First, identify your type. For air rowers, clean the flywheel vents. For magnetic, check the magnet alignment and calibration. For water, ensure the tank is full. Also, check the chain or strap tension, as a loose connection can cause this feeling.

Q: What is the best lubricant for a rowing machine rail?
A: Always use a 100% silicone-based lubricant spray or gel. Avoid petroleum-based oils or all-purpose sprays like WD-40, as they can attract dirt and damage components.

Q: My rower’s monitor is on but shows zero strokes. How can I fix this?
A: This is almost always a sensor issue. Find the small magnet on the flywheel and the sensor on the frame. Clean both and ensure they are aligned with a small gap between them (about the width of a pencil eraser).

Q: Can I fix a broken rowing machine chain myself?
A: Yes, if you can get a replacement chain. You’ll need to open the flywheel housing, remove the old chain (noting its exact path), and thread the new one. It requires patience and maybe a helper to hold tension.

Q: Why does my rowing machine seat wobble?
A: The seat is likely loose on it’s carriage. Turn the seat over and tighten any bolts connecting the seat pad to the plastic carriage. Also, check the wheels on the carriage for damage or uneven wear.